Member Name: David Peichel
Project Title: Metro EV
Project Status 4 - Done: checked
Owner: David Peichel
Owners Other EV: None
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
System Voltage: 156 Volts
Vehicle: 1997 Geo Metro 4 door sedan
Web Page: http://mneaaev.wikidot.com/dave-s-geo-metro
Motor: Azure Dynamics/Solectria AC24 3-Phase AC 50 hp peak, 17 hp continuous
Drivetrain: 5 speed manual
Controller: Azure Dynamics/Solectria DMOC445 Digital Motor Controller with regen
Batteries: 13 Deka 8G31DTM, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Gel Deka Dominator manufactured
by East Penn-Deka, 70 lbs each for a total of 900 lbs. These batteries worked well with the original
Battery Management System: Xantrex Link 10 battery pack monitor
Charger: Zivan NG3
Setup for 110V power source
Heater: One 1000 watt heater under the seat (powered by a separate lithium pack)
and one 60 watt seat heater. Plan on upgrading to a 3000 watt fluid heater next winter.
DCDC Converter: CC Power C400
This is rated for an input voltage of 144V +/- 20%. It is kept out of circuit
by some relays during the charging cycle since the charging voltages exceed this range.
Instrumentation: Xantrex Link 10 battery pack monitor
Top Speed: 70 MPH (112 KPH)
Acceleration: Similar to original geo metro.
Range: 40 Miles (64 Kilometers)My daily work commute is about 36 miles and is
half city and half freeway
Watt HoursMile: 200 Wh/Mile
Seating Capacity: 4 adults
Curb Weight: 2,700 Pounds (1,227 Kilograms)
Tires: Goodyear Integrity 175/70R14
Conversion Time: 200-300 hours
Conversion Cost: $15,500 included car and conversion parts, batteries were another
Additional Features: Upgraded to 14" rims for lower rolling resistance
tires. The kit included upgraded rear load springs
Project Comments: Most of the batteries are still pretty balanced, but 2-3 of
the batteries are tending to run lower voltage and tend to be the range limiters. Am considering adding
some active balancers to help with these weaker cells.
The vehicle accereration is less than what most people are used to, but it is
sufficient for my commute. If you have a lot of hills or aggressive freeways to negociate then you will
probably need more power. I've also gotten good at driving efficiently to maximize my range. As everyone
knows with lead acid batteries, the slower you pull the energy out the more you get, so the best range
extender is just driving slower using side streets.
The lead acid pack also leaves something to be desired in the discharge curve.
The last 5-10 miles of the range can be at reduced power levels due to the declining capability of the
battery pack. I look forward to upgrading to a lithium pack when this pack wears out.
More Photos and Info:
Step 1 - Removing the ICE components
Step 2 - Cleaning up and painting the engine compartment
Step 3 - Installing the new load springs
Step 4 - Mounting Electric Motor