Chevy Metro EV by David Peichel

Member Name:  David Peichel

Project Title: Metro EV

Project Status  4 - Done: checked

Owner: David Peichel

Owners Other EV: None

Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota

System Voltage: 156 Volts

Vehicle: 1997 Geo Metro 4 door sedan

Web Page: http://mneaaev.wikidot.com/dave-s-geo-metro

Motor: Azure Dynamics/Solectria AC24 3-Phase AC 50 hp peak, 17 hp continuous

Drivetrain: 5 speed manual

Controller: Azure Dynamics/Solectria DMOC445 Digital Motor Controller with regen braking

Batteries: 13 Deka 8G31DTM, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Gel Deka Dominator manufactured by East Penn-Deka, 70 lbs each for a total of 900 lbs. These batteries worked well with the original Solectria Forces.

Battery Management System: Xantrex Link 10 battery pack monitor

Charger: Zivan NG3

Setup for 110V power source

Heater: One 1000 watt heater under the seat (powered by a separate lithium pack) and one 60 watt seat heater. Plan on upgrading to a 3000 watt fluid heater next winter.

DCDC Converter: CC Power C400

This is rated for an input voltage of 144V +/- 20%. It is kept out of circuit by some relays during the charging cycle since the charging voltages exceed this range.

Instrumentation: Xantrex Link 10 battery pack monitor

Top Speed: 70 MPH (112 KPH)

Acceleration: Similar to original geo metro.

Range: 40 Miles (64 Kilometers)My daily work commute is about 36 miles and is half city and half freeway

Watt HoursMile: 200 Wh/Mile

Seating Capacity: 4 adults

Curb Weight: 2,700 Pounds (1,227 Kilograms)

Tires: Goodyear Integrity 175/70R14

Conversion Time: 200-300 hours

Conversion Cost: $15,500 included car and conversion parts, batteries were another $2700

Additional Features: Upgraded to 14" rims for lower rolling resistance tires. The kit included upgraded rear load springs

Project Comments: Most of the batteries are still pretty balanced, but 2-3 of the batteries are tending to run lower voltage and tend to be the range limiters. Am considering adding some active balancers to help with these weaker cells.

The vehicle accereration is less than what most people are used to, but it is sufficient for my commute. If you have a lot of hills or aggressive freeways to negociate then you will probably need more power. I've also gotten good at driving efficiently to maximize my range. As everyone knows with lead acid batteries, the slower you pull the energy out the more you get, so the best range extender is just driving slower using side streets.

The lead acid pack also leaves something to be desired in the discharge curve. The last 5-10 miles of the range can be at reduced power levels due to the declining capability of the battery pack. I look forward to upgrading to a lithium pack when this pack wears out.

 More Photos and Info:

Step 1 - Removing the ICE components

Step 2 - Cleaning up and painting the engine compartment

Step 3 - Installing the new load springs

Step 4 - Mounting Electric Motor